CHOCKSTONE CHIMNEY

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Chockstone Chimney was first climbed by Les Wilson, Max Heinritz, Andrzej Ehrenfeucht, and Leif Patterson on December 8-10, 1962.

The climb features a series of chimneys interspersed with face climbs, ending with a window out onto the face and cracks to Sherwood Forest.

On leaving the Valley after one climb, our group would select the next climb and set the date. We always met at the base of the cliff. This was Leif's first climb. Max, Andrzej, and I climbed to the base of the climb in the evening. Leif was driving by himself. It is a long way to the base of the cliff, with some route finding, difficult at night. He did not arrive, so we checked him off. However, as the dawn came and our noses came out of our bivy gear, we heard echoing through the woods "Good morning gentlemen! Exactly where are you?" Leif was dressed in full winter gear with two layers of socks over longjohns. It was very warm. He boiled.

THE CHIMNEYS

Andrzej Ehrenfeucht

At The Great Oak

THE FACE

Whereas the Chimneys were close and confined, the face was a wild open expanse of rock.

Out On the Face

We were still climbing when evening came. Warm breezes rose up the cliffs, rising from the sun heated rocks below. Max was leading, slowly working out the piton placements by headlight. Aid climbing by headlamp takes time. Fewer and fewer headlights crossed El Cap meadow below. The moon rose and moved across the sky, sending shadows of the Cathedral Spires out across the meadow. Even though I did not sleep, I was confortable and warm. We reached some ledges about 1:00 AM.

THE DESCENT

It took most of the day to work our way across Sherwood Forest and the down various ledges until overhanging El Cap Gulley. The last rappels would be close to verical. We decided to start down even though it was late.

The Bivy Oak

We ended up spending the night in an oak tree, rather uncomfortably. Max had to have his coffee in the morning, so we started a little fire in a major fork of the tree. Some coals fell down the cliff. This was not good.

One more long rappel took us to the stream.

WATER

We had been looking at this little creek for a whole day. Our water had already run out, and our mouths were cotton dry.

Rope Spaghetti

We were trying to climb on a quart of water a day. Modern hauling systems had not been developed, and hauling gallon jugs of water hand over hand was very tiring.