COPPER CANYON
THE LOWER GORGE WITH ALLEN STECK
1994
Bev and I had already done several river trips when the idea of swimming Copper Canyon came up. Our first trip was the Middle Fork of the Feather River from Hartman Bar to Milsap Bar. There were deep gorges. we could not always walk the banks. We packed our gear in plastic garbage bags and put these in our packs. Our packs became flotation devices. We put our hands on them and followed them down the rapids, and towed them behind us swimming through the pools. If we wanted to walk, we could put the packs on our backs and proceed in the normal way. Floating on our packs was more pleasant. We walked only when necessary to avoid a waterfall or scout ahead. We called this "river swimming".
Shortly after that we did a lower section of the Middle Fork. Then we happened to be invited by Rich Henke to explore in the Copper Canyon area of Mexico. Rich wanted to visit the remote Tarahumara villages. The Tarahumara were still living much as they always had on little farms in the back country and villages along the canyon cliffs.
This trip turned out to be a major adventure. We took the train to Bahuichivo and a truck down the canyon walls to Urique. We walked a few miles downriver to Guapalina, then up a side canyon. It began to rain. We took shelter under overhanging cliffs. The river began to rise. We moved to higher ledges. The canyon filled with water. It continued to rain. Soon we were on the highest ledges, the canyon full of roaring water above and below. It rained for several days.
Eventually the sun came out, but our side canyon remained impassable. Slowly the water subsided. Looking across the canyon, I saw an indian.
The folks in Guapalina had tried to come up the canyon and rescue us, but couldn't. They turned to the indians who picked out a route high up in the cliffs.
The indian waved and proceeded to fall a tree across the river. Soon we were working our way back through the cliffs. It seems we had encountered the tail end of a hurricane. The Urique had risen five or six feet, cutting off all communicatiion with town upstream.
Needless to say we were well aware of the power of the Urique river. The idea came of exploring the canyons upstream.
Maps
Map
Guidebook
Map
AAA
Map
Hand
Back in Berkeley I began to do research. There was little information at first. We did discover that there was a crossing below the town of Divisadero. The trails below Divisadero were unmapped and reportedly very difficult. Maps showed a road from the Umira Bridge west and then north to a small town called Guagueyvo across the river from Divisadero. There had to be a way from that town down to the river. That would be our approach. We would go in March in anticipation of low water.
The hand drawn map above shows "the great bend". Water flows under the Umira Bridge west through a very narrow and difficult part of the canyon. As the river approaches Divisadero, it turns to the south, forming "the great bend". Thence it continues south through various gorges eventually coming to Guadalupe a few miles upriver from Urique.
Guagueyvo
Map
From Guagueyvo to River
Map
From Umira Bridge to Guagueyvo
Panorama
South From Divisadero
The Mexican maps were not very accurate. The right map shows the "road" from Umira to Guagueyvo. Some stretches are drawn as straight lines. The roads are not straight, but the mappers didn't know where they went, so why not draw them straight? The panorama in the center was taken from the hotel at Divisadero looking toward Guagueyvo. Some of the canyons out there are a mile deep.
We asked at the Pension Creel for someone to drive us Gauagyevo. They hew someone who lived there. Jesus would drive us through the maze of logging roads to Guagueyvo, then go with us down into the gorge.
Our Party
Allen Steck
Allen in Wetsuit
Allen Steck
Looking Confident
Allen Steck
Allen in River
Allen Steck has been my friend and mentor since I moved to Berkeley in 1959. He has included me in numerous climbing adventures, both rock climbing and winter mountaineering. I felt that maybe on the rivers I could lead him to a new experience.
Sydney Quinn
On The Bank
Sydney Quinn
On The Bank
Sydney Quinn
With Dennis
Sydney was a ski patrol at Mammoth and back country skier of many years. She and Dennis were perfect complements.
Jim Wilson
Snoozing
Jim Wilson
Floating
Jim Wilson
Swimming
Jim was a physicist at Lawrence Livermore Laboratories well known for his contributions to black hole theory. Jim had climbed with Al Steck and Dick Long for many years, making the first ascent of Hummingbird Ridge on Mount Logan, an ascent that has never been repeated. Jim was not a river person, but we believed he was old enough and tough enough for the trip. We told him to bring a wetsuit, but he didn't, and was a bit cool toward the end of the trip.
Creel
Hotel
Divisadero
Train Station
Creel
Pension Creel
Brochure
The train stopped for lunch at Divisadero. The hotel at Divisadero is famous as a tourist stop on the Copper Canyon railway. It is built on the edge of the canyon. In one place you can see all the way down to the river, a mile below. The construction is of local pine and stone, giving a rustic feel to a structure that can probably accomodate several hundred people.
Creel is primarily a logging town although it has recently begun to attract tourists. There is The Best Western, The Pension Creel, and Margarita's for low budget tourists and students. We chose Pension Creel. The family that runs the Pension owns one of the local logging companies. Their lodge is roomy and simple, and they offer a number of cabins in the rear, one reserved for us.
Downtown Creel offers a public square opening to the train station on the north and various other shops, including an ice cream store. Park benches abound. Dogs wander around.
Guagueyvo
Jesus Family
At Guagueyvo
Our Group
At Guagueyvo
To the River
From Guagueyvo
We had been very lucky to find a driver who knew the country inside the great bend. There was a lot of growing in the area. The police were not welcome. They were a little fearful of entering the area without military support, as the locals could cut cut trees across the road and isolate them.
The trail to the river went down a steep and rocky ravine. Soon we could see a bend of the river far below.
The Last Supper
At The River
Before the Plunge
At The River
A Cold Start
At The River
We camped on the beach that night with Jesus and a son. In the morning it took us a long time to pack all our gear and get into our wetsuits (Jim into a huge wool sweater). Jesus took our picture. We waded into the water, feeling the cold begin to infiltrate our wetsuits. The current caught us and swept us away.
First Rapid
First Rapid
One
First Rapid
Three
First Rapid
Two
First Rapid
Four
First Rapid
Six
First Rapid
Five
First Rapid
Seven
First Rapid
Nine
First Rapid
Eight
First Rapid
Ten
The first rapid was the longest. Bev went ahead and took a series of pictures with her waterproof camera.
Second Rapid
Second Rapid
One
Second
Three
Second Rapid
Two
Second Rapid
Four
Second Rapid
Five
The second rapid was shorter, but a little bumpy. Little rapids followed each other one after another.
Third Rapid
Third Rapid
One
Third Rapid
Two
The third rapid was quite intimidating. We had read in various accounts that there were places the river disappeared into huge boulder piles. This looked like it might be one. After some consideration, we decided to go in a little way assuming we could return if necessary. Wow! We could see light on the far side! We were in deep pool, water flowing around the tops of projecting boulders, house size boulders arching above us. This place would be impassable in higher water.
On The River
On the River
Camp
On the River
Camp
On the River
Camp
On the River
Where Are We?
On the River
Walking & Wading
On the River
Walking & Wading
The camps along the river were always pleasant. There was plenty of wood and good food. There was also the joy of being warm again. Wetsuits or no, the water was chilly and by evening we were cold, Jim especially. His wool sweater became a heavy sodden mass. There were beautiful pools and gravel banks warm in the sun. We were following the map closely.
Guadalupe
Cathedral
Guadalupe
The valley widened. Wooded banks replaced the cliffs. We became aware of fields above us, and climbed the banks to find ourselves in the little town of Guadalupe which Bev and I recognized from out previous visits to Urique. Floating was over. Soon we would be having supper at Virginia's restaurant.
The Rim
Urique
Outlook at Rim
Urique
Outlook at Rim
The walk to Urique was short. We crossed the river on a cable suspension bridge. No more swimming. The river bed was a hundred feet wide. A narrow channel of water flowed between wide gravel banks. We passed by Thomas's campground where we stayed with the family once. We entered Virginia's restaurant. She remembered us from previous trips, and was surprised to hear of our adventure. Virginia has two daughters attending the University of Colorado. We arranged for a truck in the morning to climb the hill and take us to the rail station at Bahuichivo.
It is over a mile vertically to the rim. The drivers take the caps off the radiators. This allows the water to boil and the steam carries away heat. Of course the tank needs to be refilled often. We have three fifty five gallon drums.
Just below the rim the driver stopped at the overlook. This is the first time we have been able to see the size of the canyon. The canyon is probably deeper on the average than the Grand Canyon, but the sides are sloped and brushy. There are no huge walls such as in the Gran Canyon. Another half hour driving through pinelands and we reach Bahuichivo just in time for the train, and a few hours later we are back in Creel. The wide vistas all around amaze us. We have become accustomed to being half under water in a narrow canyon.
