2002 BOWRON LAKES REPORT
Report
Les, Bev, Gus, Andrea, Sandy, Sally
September 15 - 21, 2002
The Bowron Lakes circuit has been noted as one of the most popular canoe trips in Canada. The Bowron Lake Provincial Park is a few kilometers east of Wells forty or so kilometers easty of Quesnel in British Columbia. The circuit consists of four stretches, Bowron Lake north east to Isaac Lake through portages, small lakes and marshes; then a long paddle south east down Isaac Lake and the Cariboo River; then south west through McLeary Lake, Lanezi Lake, and Sandy Lake to Unna Lake and Cariboo Falls; then the final stretch north west though small lakes and portages to Bowron Lake and a seven kilometer paddle home. The amazing thing is there is little elevation change in the whole system, most of which occurs in the 2.4 kilometer portage at the very start. The lakes can be windy. But most of the trip is along wooded shorelines below forested ridges capped with snow.
The circuit has some fifty odd campsites, with facilities ranging from simple tent platforms, to open shelters, to comfortable cabins. Wood is provided in stacks along the shore and at some campsites. The portages are well graded and drained. Canoes are carried on two wheeled carriers. If the load is well balanced, these can be moved smoothly with one hand.
Our party consisted of Les and Bev Wilson, Gus Benner and Andrea Faber, and Sandy and Sally Small, all from the San Francisco East Bay area in California. We drove up through northern California and the Fraser River valley arriving at Bear River Mercantile the evening of with enough time to check in at the ranger station to review park regulations and arrange for our canoes in the morning.
Bear River Mercantile
Our first evening was in a cabin rented from Bear River Mercantile. We enjoyed the evening with a glass of wine and view down Bowron Lake.
The First Day
We flunked our first weigh in at the ranger station in the morning and had to re-arrange our loads. The weight in the canoe was limited to 60 pounds on portages. A good bit of weight had to be carried in our packs.
The circuit starts with the longest portage, 2.4 kilometers, uphill right out of the ranger station. This was also the largest elevation gain we would encounter. It was raining. We had to keep bailing our canoes as they filled with rain water. Gus noted that it would be very embarrassing to swamp our canoes on a portage. However, the paths were firm and well graded and the two wheeled dollies easy to pull.
The first portage ends at a beaver dam on Kibbee Creek. We followed the creek into Kibbee Lake. On the far side of the lake we made our second portage of 2 kilometers to Indianpoint Lake. By now we were wet and miserable, and decided to camp at site 6 on the north shore about halfway down the lake. We spent a lot of time that evening arranging and re-arranging tarps to cover the people but not the fire, usually managing to dump a rain puddle on ourselves.
The Second Day
Indianpoint Lake ends in a marsh. A short portage leads to the west extension of Isaac Lake. by far the biggest lake on the circuit, 42 kilometers long, and often windy. But it was nice to be out on the open water. There were sunny gravel bars and beautiful views up and down the lake. This lake even has a patrol boat.
 
 
We intended to camp at site 21, but found it filled, and moved down lake to site 21A. We were getting pretty good at setting up tarps by now.
The Third Day
This was a miserable day. We were paddling into rain, wind, and waves.
The lake flows south into the Isaac River. The first section is a narrow chute with a difficult right turn. We portaged this. The Isaac Lake shelter site 29 is open on all sides with picnic tables. A prominent sign indicates camping outside. Andrea thought this was a bit foolish under the circumstances. Within a few minutes we had the picnic tables pushed to the edge and our tents inside.
The Fourth Day
Downstream from the shelter is a stretch of very rough water which we portaged on the left, then a short stretch, followed by a portage on the right around an 11 meter waterfall into McLeary Lake and the Cariboo River. The river is swift and silt laden. Sweepers can be a problem, and shallow water in late summer. For us this run was wonderful, floating past grassy banks with a good current. Lanezi lake has a bad reputation. The lake runs east west between high mountain ridges, which funnel a western wind and cause high waves. We were heading for the cabinn at site 34. On leaving the Cariboo we met the wind and waves coming down the lake. We paddled hard, quartering the waves, and finally reached the cabin. People rushed out to help us. Wonderful. But the cabin was swamped. Several parties had attempted to continue up Lanezi Lake the day before and had foundered and gone to shore. Other parties had turned back. Yet others had waited. There was no room.
Drying clothes hung from every beam. Sleeping bags spread under and across every table. But there was warmth; the cabin had four walls and a good fireplace. There was companionship. Gus and Sandy broke out some 151 proof rum. Two guests turned out to be bartenders and told us to make "Backdrafts" from the rum, although they said the preferred "Sambuco Paralysers". It seems every one there had a good war story. In the evening it cleared.
The Fifth Day
In the morning of our fifth day everyone poured out of the cabin as though released from a trap. The lake was calm under a cloudy sky.
We passed through the narrows into Sandy Lake. We entered the Cariboo River, drifting in the slow current. Below lay Cariboo Falls. We found the channel to the left into Unna Lake, just above the falls. Camp was at site 40.
After our return from Cariboo Falls, we decided to investigate Rum Lake, a little glacial tarn connected to Unna Lake by a narrow passage through a grassy marsh.
The Sixth Day
In the morning we paddled back up river to the bend and turned left into Babcock Creek. We were now starting to climb back up to Bowman Lake. The country was relatively flat and the water clear; no longer alpine country. We crossed Babcock Lake and made two small portages into Spectacle Lake which turned into Swan Lake and then the lower Bowron River. Our camp was site number 54 on the south bank overlooking a magnificent marsh where moose and waterfowl may be seen. The wind came up and it began to rain, so we did the blue tarp dance again that night.
The Seventh Day
On our last day we paddled up the Bowron River. We saw harriers and an eagle. We did not see a moose, although there certainly should have been one. Bowron Lake was calm and sunny. It was a perfect autumn day. We kept pausing for pictures. We didn't want the trip to end.