GUAPALINA

TRAPPED IN A SIDE CANYON WITH RICHARD HENKE

1992

We have shared many adventures with Rich Henke; ski tours in Yellowstone, hikes in Nepal, canyons in Utah, Kayaking along the California coast. He and a friend were going to Mexico to explore parts of Copper Canyon, "the Grand Canyon of Mexico". We had never heard of it. Would we go? Yes!! Thus began one of the scariest trips of my life.

The Sierra Madre mountains rise from sea level in western Mexico to elevations as high as 12000 feet, and support the plains of central Mexico at elevations around 8,000 to 10,000 feet. A series of rivers break through this mountain chain and flow into the Pacific, cutting gorges frequently over a mile deep. The Urique River is one such. Its gorge is the world famous Copper Canyon. A railroad runs from Los Mochis to Chihuahua along the north rim of the gorge. The Copper Canyon railroad is one of the wonders of the world. At one point it tunnels into a mountain, slowly curves around to the north, and comes out a thousand feet above. We would get off at Bahuichivo about half way to the continental divide at Creel. A half hours drive south of Bahuichivo a view of the canyon opens. A twisty road winds down to the village of Urique a mile below.

Rich was interested in the Tarahumara indians. These are the famous runners. The villages, such as Urique, are Mexican. The Tarahumara live in clusters of primitive huts in the hills. We would walk downriver from Urique to Guapalina, and the climb a side canyon and try to reach one of the indian villages. This seemed like a good idea. We passed through Guapalina and started up the side canyon accompanied by a town dog, soon entering a narrow gorge. It was late. We camped. It rained. The gorge flooded. We were forced to climb up into some caves to escape the stream, now a roaring flood tumbling over boulders.

It rained more. We spent another night in the cave, getting worried as the waters continued to rise. There was no way up from where we were; sheer cliffs. The Mexicans in Guapalina becme worried. They tried to come up the gorge, but couldn't. Some indians in Guapalina decided to help. They followed paths along the far side of the canyon. I was peeing and I looked up. There was an indian across the stream.

Soon the indians had cut a tree across the river as a bridge. Rich Henke carried the dog across in his pack. Guided along faint paths, we were back in Guapalina. There was a huge celebration. We toasted the "Guapalina Mountain Rescue Squad".