Turnbuckle Crackjacks
Small Closed
Small Open
Large Closed
Large Open
Large in Position
Place Sling at side
To place the CrackJack, first shorten it to a loose fit. Then position the support side (LHS in this case) in the best possible way. This side will provide most of the support. Hold the right hand side in the right hand pushing left to hold the position of the LHS and open the turnbuckle with the lefthand until the RHS tightens against the rock.
The load will come on the LHS with the sling, so be sure this fits well to the rock. Not much compression is needed if this is a good fit.
Aluminum CrackJack
Webbing is for carrying
Exploded
Left End Detail, Threaded
Exploded
Barrel Detail
Exploded
Right End Detail, Swivel
To fit well the angle pieces welded on the end of the iron crackjacks must be in parrallel planes. The aluminum crackjacks were a major improvement. The angle pieces on the ends were loosely attached, and could adjust about fifteen degrees in the long axis and five degrees in the short axis to accommodate non parrallel sides.
Placed With Carabiner
Place on unthreaded side
Placed With Sling
Place on unthreaded side
Do not clip into the cord in the center. Place a carabiner or sling on the unthreaded side as shown. The cord is for carrying the crackjack on hardware sling or harness.
Place the unthreaded side against a bulge or above a micro-flake where it will provide the best support.
Cave
Pinnacle Rock, Berkeley
Horn
Pinnacle Rock, Berkeley
The heads are swiveled to accommodate placement when the crack sides are not parrallel. The angles on the heads can be set either horizontally or vertically, or in combination. The best choice depends on the exact configuration of the opposing surfaces.
Again, the strength of the anchor is determined largely by the positioning of the support or sling side. The rock surface must be chosen very carefully for a good fit. The CrackJack itself is very strong. Peter tried to pull one out with a car, and broke a climbing rope.
