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Early Crack Jacks

The defining concept of a crackjack is use of a low pitch screw to expand the crackjack and exert force against the wall. By that definition all the following devices qualify as early crackjacks.

A second concept is swiveled ends allowing the crackjack to adapt to non parrallel sides, and to beneft from irregularites in the walls.

A third concept is easy interchangeability of barrels, allowing a set of two ends and a selection of barrels to bridge almost any crack.

Visse-Roc 1958

Visse-Roc 1958

Visse-Roc Picture

Jean Couzy

For Cima Ouest di Lavaredo

Visse-Roc 1972

Visse-Roc Picture

Catalogue

"Jean Couzy, who was an engineer in the French aeronautics industry, created his jack , made of Duralumin, for the north face of the Cima Ouest di Lavaredo, which he attempted with Rene Desmaison in 1958. Yet he found no use for it on this ascent. An artificial chockstone, used more as an aid than for belay, it was eventually marketed in two sizes by a French company Joanny in 1972, under the brand name Visse-Roc." From Nuts Museum Cam Story.

This device clearly satisfies the first criterion of expandability.

However, it fails the second criterion of adaptability to non parrallel sided cracks.

It also fails the third criterion of easily interchangeable barrels. It was offered in two sizes; no interchangeability of barrels.

Coins Regiables 1962

Coins Regiables 1962

Ruggeri and Ughetto Crackjack

Ruggeri and Ughetto

For Corno Stella, Argentina

"In the meantime, another french rope, composed of 'Southerners' Franck Ruggeri and Didier Ughetto, perfected (in 1962) a set of adjustable chocks for the north face of the Corno Stella (Argentera). Of similar design to the Visse-Roc, these jacks were made of hard wood, in five sizes, the largest would lock in a crack 26CM wide." From Nuts Museum Cam Story.

This device satisfies the first criterion of expandability.

However, it fails the second criterion of adaptability to non parrallel sided cracks.

It also fails the third criterion of easily interchangeable barrels. It was offered in five sizes; no interchangeability of barrels.

Tendor Date?

No Tendor Picture Available

Vitali Abalakov

Tendor Drawing

Tendor Drawing

Page 123

How To Make Equipment Yourself

Vitali Abalakov

There is little information on this device. Only the drawing. However, it is not the same as the Visse-Roc.

"I contacted my friend, the Czech Vladimir Prochazka, about the Tendor posted by Peter on Supertopo. Vladimir saw this device more than 30 years ago. It was mentioned in a mountaineering handbook written by his father in 1975, under the Czech name “Desmaisonova rozperka” after René Desmaison (a famous French mountaineer). They ejected it from the second and third edition of this book because it was not working well. I do not have any Tendor in the Nuts Museum…" Stéphane Pennequin

It is interesting to note the turnbuckle crackjacks were probably developed at this same period. The aluminum crackjacks were developed in 1964, and the turnbuckle version preceeded them by several years.

Screw Cams

The defining idea of the screw cam is, again, the ability to lengthen the barrel as needed to bridge the crack. However, little force can be applied to the walls, as the cam ends in a point and would fracture the rock.

Secure Screw Cam

Secure Screw Cam

Secure Screw Cam

Demo

Secure Screw Cam Demo

Drawing

Secure Screw Cam Drawing

Page 165

How To Make Equipment Yourself

Ural Wide Crack Device

Ural Wide Crack Device

Various Screw Cams

Made in Russia

Imported by Ushba Mountain Works

Ural Wide Crack Device

Various Screw Cams

Various Sizes

"Ural Wide Crack Devices were made in Russia and imported in the USA in the nineties by Ushba Mountain Works. Founded by Jim Bowes in 1992, Ushba Mountain Works was a U.S. owned and operated corporation that produces specialized titanium mountaineering and safety products. The Ushba Mountain Works brandname and product-line was acquired by Liberty Mountain (Salt Lake City, Utah USA) at the beginning of 2004." Stéphane Pennequin

Tom Proctor Adjustable Friend

Tom Proctor

Various Proctor Screw Cams

Tom Proctor Adjustable Friend

Tom Proctor

Various Proctor Screw Cams

Crags #28, December 1981

Note the double extension. This allows expansion to cracks of 14 inches.